Bleachers' Brew #227 A Taste of Serbia

A Taste of Serbia

by rick olivares

You’d think that Rajko Toroman was a celebrity endorser pitching for fellow Serbian Marko Batricevic’s Balkan Express restaurant. Less than 30 minutes after the Smart Gilas Pilipinas National Team squeaked past Korean pro club SK Knights in a friendly at the San Juan Arena the other week, the coach was giddy and effuse with his entreaties for me to sample Batricevic’s Eastern European cuisine at his newly opened restaurant somewhere in the labyrinthine streets of San Juan.

Though I needed no prodding since Marko first told me of his plans almost a year ago, how could I refuse Toroman what with my hunger pangs growing louder. Besides, it the restaurant – Balkan Express -- was less than five minutes away.

Batricevic was having a cup of his Goulash when I arrived with a good friend of mine, Robin Tong, who is a regular at the restaurant. The Serb’s eyes immediately lit up when he saw me alight from the car. “You did it,” I said by way of greeting.

“Yes, I did,” he answered back proudly. What started out as a project for school is now his full time occupation more so now that his basketball career over. “I love the game but I’ve always known that I was going to be doing something else.”

And as a youngster, Marko dreamt of becoming a ninja. “That seems crazy now, doesn’t it?” he laughed.

Having lived in the Philippines for several years now, the Serb has come to love and appreciate not just the local culture but also the cuisine. “I love sinigang na baboy,” he said with a smile. “I could eat it all the time.”

As time went by, he not only missed the food of his native country. “I told myself that I could prepare myself some over here. From there it morphed into an idea about putting up a restaurant. At one point the two of us even brainstormed about name studies for the restaurant (the name was taken from an old Serbian movie of the same name).

Marko never figured that managing a restaurant would take up so much of one’s time but he doesn’t mind it one bit. He oversees the procurement of food and ingredients while his brother, Martin, takes care of the cooking. “I can’t cook!” he confessed. “But I like to eat.”

Apparently, so do many others. On weekdays, the Balkan Express, with its eight different items on the menu, does pretty well. On weekends, the place is packed. “You have to place a reservation,” noted Tong of which Batricevic confirmed.

Tong isn’t the only regular. Toroman practically cleans out the refrigerator. “His tab goes to two thousand, three thousand pesos sometimes,” said Marko who is grateful for the opportunity to converse with others in their native tongue.

“It’s a slice of my home,” smiled Toroman. The famous coach’s driver concurs. Whenever he’s here, he orders several meals.

The menu – Balkanski Kebab, Goulash (beef stew), Musaka (casserole), Chicken Batak (boneless chicken), Pljeskavica (grilled hamburger), Butkice (baked pork), Balkanska Snicla (breaded chicken), and Cevapcici (minced meat burger) – has been somewhat adapted to fit the Filipino’s taste buds without sacrificing much of its Eastern European flavor. “We made sure that the menu doesn’t take too long to serve. That is why the word ‘express’ is perfect.”

Initially, Batricevic was looking to set up in the Malate area but while looking around for an ideal location, he came to love the quiet streets of San Juan where many a small diner, coffee shop, and restaurant have mushroomed. He finally chose a small spot at Jose Abad Santos Street corner Mons Street in the area called Little Baguio. “I like the place. It’s quaint and quiet. Plus it’s near where I stay in Greenhills.” described the former De La Salle Green Archer about his restaurant’s idyllic setting. Other than the strange spelling of the food items, there are few totems from his native country. A few dolls in traditional Serbian dress as well as statues from his country are placed atop a shelf.  

“I don’t believe in advertising it,” said the marketing graduate about his restaurant. “If it’s good then by word of mouth it will go around.”

The 6’5” Serb has become a local celebrity. “I guess I stand out,” Batricevic deadpanned. “I’m tall.”

“People think he is speaking in tongues,” joked Tong.

Added Toroman, “In Manila, there’s Chinese, Thai, Japanese and other types of cuisine but most people have not seen Serbian or Eastern European food. That is why it’s something new.”

When I asked Marko if he though of expanding or even franchising, he said it’s something to consider but it depends on how the restaurant does. Tong recommended that he consider putting up one in the Katipunan area (home of his alma mater’s rival). “You think it will be a hit there?” he asked intrigued by the idea.

It turned out that so far many of his customers are from the blue side of the rivalry. “We’ll see.” he said considering the possibility.

“I think it will do well.” I chipped in. “Just don’t wear a ninja outfit.” 

Dinner one evening with some friends.

Check out a previous column on Marko Batricevic here.


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